Types of Fly Line

Three decisions on every fly line

Every fly line answers three questions: how heavy it is (the line weight), how it is shaped (the taper), and whether it floats or sinks (the buoyancy). Wikipedia's naming pattern, taper-weight-buoyancy, puts all three in the code on the box: WF-5-F is a weight-forward taper, for a 5-weight rod, that floats. Weight is covered in our fly line weight chart guide, so this page is about the other two, plus the specialties.

Taper: weight forward vs double taper

Wikipedia lists the traditional tapers as level, double taper (DT) and weight forward (WF), and the specialised ones as shooting head or shooting taper, triangle taper and tenkara. Most anglers choose between the first two.

Weight forward. Orvis describes these as lines that taper one way with the heaviest section near the front. It says they are the most common fly lines in use, handle nymphing, dries, indicator rigs and a wide range of streamers when matched to your rod weight, and suit long-distance casting with front heads of 35 to 40 feet. Its rule of thumb: fast rods, bigger water and wind favour weight forward.

Double taper. Tapered at both ends. Orvis says it is best at short range, under about 30 feet, throwing big, open loops for delicate presentations. It is easier to mend, ideal for roll casts, and suited to slower or medium-action rods and small to medium streams. A practical perk: if the tip wears, you can turn the line around and keep fishing. A weight-forward line cannot be reversed.

Short version. Orvis says that up to about 30 feet there is no real difference. If you fish small water and short casts, either works. If you fish bigger water or wind, weight forward gives you reach.

Buoyancy: floating, sinking, sink-tip

Floating. Wikipedia says floating lines are built with positive buoyancy and embedded air bubbles in the coating. Orvis calls them the most common line and a good beginner choice. They keep dry flies, emergers and nymphs near the surface and reduce drag, and can fish streamers and wet flies if you add weight to the fly or leader. Our floating fly lines page lists them.

Sinking. Wikipedia says sinking lines have tungsten or other heavy particles in the coating. Orvis says they sink at a rated speed in inches per second, which lets you count seconds to estimate depth, and suit still water such as lakes. Wikipedia adds that sink-rate types run from 1 to 6, with 1 the slowest, and that there is no industry standard, so ratings vary by maker. Read each maker's description, not just the number. See our guide on fishing a lake.

Sink-tip. A floating running line with a weighted leader end, per Orvis. It is popular for streamers in fast, deep rivers, because the fly sinks while the line stays on top. Wikipedia codes this F/S. See the streamer guide.

Buoyancy is not weight. A line's weight number is the mass of the first 30 feet, and Wikipedia describes floating or sinking as a matter of construction, so a 5-weight floating line and a 5-weight sinking line can weigh the same.

Specialty lines

Orvis lists a few that are worth recognising on a listing:

• Skagit or spey lines, built with powerful tapers for that casting method, mainly used for salmon and steelhead. See Skagit vs Scandi and our spey rod guide.
• Tactical or Euro nymph lines, thin lines that carry less line in the air, reducing snags and improving sensitivity to strikes. See what is Euro nymphing.
• Saltwater and freshwater lines. Orvis says to pick freshwater or saltwater first, then the line style.

Wikipedia also lists shooting heads and tenkara lines as specialised tapers. They exist for particular jobs, and if you are not sure you have that job, you do not need one.

How to choose

1. Match the weight to the rod. Orvis says a line should typically match your rod weight and style of fishing.
2. Pick the taper. Weight forward for most things; double taper if you fish short, quiet water and like to roll cast.
3. Pick the buoyancy. Floating to start. Sink-tip for streamers in fast, deep rivers; sinking line for still water.
4. Check the listing. On the fly lines page each model shows Line weight, Taper, Floating / sinking, Length and Core. A "maker" mark means the maker's own page says so, "listing" means it came from Amazon, and "—" means we could not confirm it.

Common mistakes

• Assuming sinking means heavier. Weight and sink rate are separate.
• Trusting a sink-rate number across brands. Wikipedia says there is no industry standard.
• Buying double taper for the wind and the big water. Orvis puts weight forward there.
• Buying a specialty line for a general rod. A Skagit line is built for a particular casting method.

The three letters and a number on the box are most of what you need to read.

(The line itself does not mind which you choose. It is the rod that has opinions.)